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When you're dealing with voracious geckos, dragons, or in some cases, humans, finding bulk crickets for sale online will be your saving grace.
Our House Crickets are soft bodied, and wingless, making them easy to digest for all of your beloved bearded dragons, leopard geckos, and other critter-munching pets. And without the wings, you can store them in your home without worrying about chirping noises. So finding high-quality crickets for sale online has never been easier.
Video Tutorial - How To Unpack Live Crickets:
We have millions of crickets for sale. We are fully stocked, and can fulfill orders as little as 250, or as many as 100,000.
And whether you're looking for pinhead crickets, or full 1" adults, we've got every size available.
Our crickets are of the Acheta domesticus variety, but are colloquially known as the "house cricket." And whether you order these crickets to feed one of your beloved pets, or to try and raise your own, here are a few pointers you'll want to keep in mind:
- Keep your crickets in a tall, plastic storage bin. If you're breeding crickets, then space is important. So consider a 14 gallon bin, for a colony of 500-1000. But if you're just trying to store them as feeder crickets, then a 5 gallon bucket will be fine.
- Your cricket enclosure will require air flow. So whether you're using a 5 gallon bucket, or another type of plastic container, avoid using a lid. You can line the lip of the container with a piece of clear plastic. Or, you can place a screen over the enclosure.
- If breeding, use vermiculite as a bedding material.
- The best temperatures is 80 degrees F for an active colony of bulk crickets.
- Crickets need a lot of water. So be sure to provide a dish of water that is shallow enough that it won't drown them. An alternative is to use soft, juicy fruits like oranges or watermelon. The fruits will also provide them with a natural source of nutrition, which can benefit your beloved pet.
- They will also need some type of wheat or grain. Grainy bread is excellent. Or you can offer them corn meal, bran, and other type of ground feed from a feed store.
- And never provide them with calcium supplements. A lot of other cricket vendors try to pass off calcium supplements as a beneficial dietary supplement for the crickets. But really, those supplements might as well be snake oil. Fresh fruit and vegetables will give the crickets all the nutrition they need to be healthy feeders for your beloved pet.
There are many other factors that need to be considered for your cricket colony. And whether you're trying to breed them, or keep them healthy for your lovable pet, feel free to reach out to us for any questions: email@example.com
How To Pick The Right Cricket Size
We offer a variety of ages and sizes. And although the options may be overwhelming, it's vital to know which size is best for your pet. And the rule of thumb is the size of your crickets should be equal to the distance between your pets' eyes:
And if you're trying to grow your own cricket colony, age will always be a consideration. So here's how each cricket size coorelates with their age:
- Pinhead - 1-2 days old. They are about the size of an ant, and are a very soft bodied for baby dragons, geckos, and poison dart frogs.
- 1/8" - About 5 days old. Very soft bodies for young reptiles and amphibians.
- 1/4" - 7 days old. Still soft bodied.
- 3/8" - 10-12 days old. This is when the crickets begin to reach sexual maturity. They will begin breeding and laying eggs at this age.
- 1/2" - 3 weeks old. They are considered "medium" by most vendors.
- 5/8" - 3 1/2 weeks old. These are the most popular size.
- 3/4" - 4 weeks old.
- Adult - 5 weeks old. At this age, the crickets' exoskeleton becomes pretty coarse and hard to digest. These sizes aren't typically used as feeders for pets. They are better suited as fish bait.
How To Breed Your Own Crickets
Breeding crickets can be fun, easy, and very very exciting. And yes, if everyone started breeding their own crickets, we'd probably go out of business. But none the less, if you want to breed your own crickets, we want to make sure all the information is available for a successful colony. Because whether you buy from us, or grow your own, what's important is making sure your beloved pets are getting the nutrition they need. So here's a step by step guide on how to start breeding your own crickets:
- Container - The first move is to have 2 plastic tubs about the size of a recycling bin. 1 tub will be enough for 500 crickets to breed. The purpose for having 2 is because you'll be rotating crickets. So make sure you have 2 tubs to start.
- Don't Use a Lid - These tubs come with lids. And you'll probably want to grab the lids when you purchase the tubs. However, do not use the lids. It is critical that crickets get adequate air flow. This helps prevent odors, and a stressful living environment. Crickets won't breed in stressful environments. So instead of using a lid, you can line the top of the tub with a screen from a home improvement store.
- Bedding - The crickets won't do well in the container with only plastic. So you'll want to line it with bedding. There are numerous bedding materials available. However, vermiculite is proven to be one of the best. It can control odor, and prevent bacteria growth. So what you'll need to do is line to the bottom of your container with about 1-2 inches of vermiculite.
- Interior Smaller Egg Tray - 2 week old crickets (3/8") will begin to procreate. The female crickets will need a separate container filler with top soil to lay their eggs. This separate container will fit in the bottom of the main container, it will need to be filled with top soil. The female crickets will fill this egg container in about 2 weeks with little oblong eggs. After 2 weeks, you'll want to relocate this container into another container exactly the way as step #1.
And once you've gone through the cycle, you can start consistently raising your own crickets.
How To Control Cricket Odor
It's sad to report that our beloved, protein-rich friends come with a little body odor problem. And if you've grown up with crickets your entire life, then the odor may waft past you without ever noticing it. But if you're not normally around crickets, then their mild odor could catch you by surprise.
And this is why we recommend housing your crickets without a lid. The air circulation will help exhaust the stale smell that collects when there's a bulk amount of crickets.
However, vermiculite is a cricket's and their owner's best friend. It is a very dry substrate that makes for an excellent bedding material when breeding crickets. This dry bedding can also be used when housing crickets. And here's a few resources for where you can find the vermiculite.
How To Fish With Crickets
Worms are the most notorious bait for fishing. However, many fish hunters have discovered that crickets serve as excellent bait for many types of pan fish. If ordering and storing crickets isn't one of your many skills, then consider looking into some of these bait stores near me to find a local supplier of fishing crickets.The belief is that pan fish naturally swim around the bank due to its cover. And this is where crickets are more likely to be found, since they are not natural swimmers. So when a helpless cricket falls into the perils of the open water, it’s quickly devoured as a hearty snack.
You’ll need a long shanked no. 8 or 10 light-wire hook for the crickets. Run the hook through the crickets’ chin. Then push it further through the center of the body, and out the tail end of the cricket. Then after the cricket thas been threaded onto the hook, you’ll want to push the cricket onto the shank of the hook so that it hangs straight and upright. This will encourage the fish to put the entire hook into its mouth.
After the cricket has been hooked, the best way to present the cricket is with a basic float rig. This consists of only 3 elements:
- A hook
- Split shot
Once your rig is set up, you’ll want to cast your cricket rig close to cover, or near a bank. These areas are where panfish will expect to see crickets floating on top of the surface. And once you’re cast into the water, just patiently wait for the water to ripple around your rig.
If you're having trouble getting the fish's attention, then consider some of these fish finders. Whether you're kayaking, pontooning, or ice fishing, these fish finders will help you identify the depths, as well as the amount of fish in the areas. And no matter your budget, you can find fish finders as low as $50, to well over $1000. So don't get discouraged if your inner finder isn't working, because there's plenty of sonar-infused finders to help you net a great yield of fish.
How to Gutload My Crickets
Gutloading isn't as violent as it sounds. What's involved is feeding your crickets good, healthy, nutritional foods. And those nutritional foods that you're feeding your crickets, will then be passed onto your bearded dragon, leopard gecko, or other beloved pet.
And crickets are omnivorous scavengers. Which means they'll eat practically anything (even their off-spring). So although they're not picky, you need to be picky with what you're offering them. So here's a quick list of quality foods to provide that will help out your beloved pet:
- Crushed cat food or dog food - This food is packed with vitamins and nutrients. However, you'll want to make sure you target the high-end, high-quality pet food. Because that will only help you have a happier pet in the long run.
- Wheat Bran - This stuff is full of fiber. Which will help your bearded dragon push all that cricket chitin through its digestive track.
- Vegetables - Greens like lettuce and spinach are some of the best foods you can offer crickets. But crickets will never turn down potatoes!
- Fruits - As mentioned up top, juicy fruits like watermelon, oranges, apples, and mango are excellent sources of vitamins and hydration for crickets.
The list of things to offer crickets isn't limited to these items. But you just want to make sure that what you are offering them does increase the nutritional value of the cricket.
But timing your cricket's healthy meal is just as important as the meal. If you force feed the crickets too soon before their peril, then the nutritional value won't get absorbed into the cricket. But if you want too long, then the nutrients will get digested by the cricket, and turn into cricket waste. So the recommended time frame to gutload your crickets is 24-48 hours before you feed them to your beloved bearded dragon. And as long as you follow those guide lines, you'll be maximizing your the nutritional value of your crickets.
Cricket's Nutritional Value
|Moisture (%)||Protein (%)||Fat (%)||Fiber (%)||Calcium (mg/kg)||Phosphorus (%)|
How To Dust Crickets With Calcium Powder
As you can see on the nutritional value chart, crickets are hearty in protein, fiber, and phosphorus. However, they are lacking calcium. And calcium is a critical nutrient for your beloved pet. Without enough calcium, your pet's bones can become weak, ultimately reducing their life span. So it's critical to dust your crickets with calcium powder.
There are many suppliers of calcium powder. But they all provide the same benefit; increasing the amount of calcium that gets ingested by your pet. But it's' not so easy sprinkling the powder on some jumpy crickets. So here's what you'll need to do.
First, only select the crickets you plan on feeding your pet for the day. Put those crickets inside a Ziplock bag. Then add 2 tablespoons of calcium powder inside the bag. Then, gently shake the bag so the powder dusts the crickets. And after shaking for about 1 minute, you'll have adequately dusted your crickets for your beloved pets.
Feeder Alternatives to Crickets
In addition to crickets, we also sell some of the heartiest dubia roaches online. There are many reasons that make dubia roaches a preferred feeder insect. And the biggest reason is that they offer more calcium than crickets. Calcium is critical for bearded dragons, and other reptiles. Without it, they can suffer from metabolic bone disease, a terminal disease that causes a lot of pain and suffering. Even though they have higher calcium, they should still be dusted with calcium powder.
Additionally, they have less chitin. Chitin is the hard, fibrous exoskeleton that can be found on mealworms. This is what makes them a poor feeder choice for bearded dragons. Crickets also have chitin, but not enough to cause a concern. But dubia roaches have the least amount, making their soft bodies a delight for bearded dragons and other reptiles to consume and digest.
Superworms are a nice source of protein. They are also easier to store than crickets, and don't have an odor like crickets. However, one drawback is that they can grow some chitin, but not as much as mealworms. And they have a high fat content. Because of this fat content, superworms shouldn't be used as a staple feeder. Instead, they should be used as a treat. Or offered to pregnant reptiles, because that is a time when fat and protein comes in handy.
How Often Should I Feed Crickets To My Pets?
Caring for your bearded dragon is no small task. But earning their love is worth every step. And one of the biggest questions when it comes to caring for them is "what is their feeding schedule?"
This is known as their "feeding frequency." And this is pretty easy to define. Basically, all bearded dragons will need to be fed daily. But the question of how much to feed them depends on their age, and their life stage.
A young bearded dragon will need to a diet of about 80% insects and 20% fruits and vegatables. The fat and protein from the crickets and superworms will ensure the baby bearded dragon gets the proper nutrition to grow large and healthy.
But, once the bearded dragon matures, you'll want to reverse those percentages, and offer 20% insects, and 80% fruits and vegetables.
But the amount you offer will depend on the season. If they are brumating, or if they're shedding, you'll want to reduce the amount offered. These natural cycles can reduce your pets appetite, which could leave excess food living or decaying inside his home. And that won't make for a nice living environment. So do make sure to be up to date on your beloved beardie's feeding schedule.
Leopard gecko's are insectivores, and need to be fed a steady diet of insects. So although it's fun and wonderful having a leopard gecko for a pet, knowing how to care for that leopard gecko requires attention to detail. And just like bearded dragons, it's important to not feed your pet dead insects. Dead insects will begin to decay and attract bacteria, which can harm your pet. So always be mindful of the health of your insects, as well as leopard gecko.
But they will need to be fed daily. But how many you feed them depends on their age. Young leopard geckos should be fed a diet of about 4-8 insects a day. While an adult leopard gecko will need to absorb somewhere between 5-10 insects per day.
Leopard geckos will appreciate a variety. So don't just limit them to crickets. You can also feed them mealworms, wax worms, and superworms.
But not matter what you feed them, closely monitor how many they're eating. Sometimes leopard geckos can be gluttons. And they might eat more than they should. The problem with this is that it can cause impaction in their digestive track, which can harm them, or even be fatal. So be sure to learn your leopard gecko's feeding frequency, as well as what foods they specifically like to eat.
Crested geckos like insects. But they aren't insectivores like their cousin, Leopard Geckos. As with most reptiles, crickets are a great food source. They are inexpensive for the care-givers. And they offer a supple amount of protein for your crested gecko. Superworms and waxworms are fine sources of food too. But they should be limited as a treat, and not considered a main source of food.
It's important to gut-load and dust your crickets. Gut-loading is a simple process, where you feed your feeder crickets fruits, whole wheats, and other nutritional food for 24 hours. The goal is that this increases the nutritional value of the crickets, who then pass on that value to your crested gecko.
And just like gut-loading, dusting is another important step to consider. It's the simple act of adding calcium to your cricket. But instead of feeding them, you sprinkle calcium powder on them, which the crested gecko benefits from when they eat the crickets.
One difference with a crested gecko's diet is they enjoy an occasional dab of baby food. Baby food is a nice puree of nutritional fruits that can really boost the health and well-being of your crested gecko. Bananas, peaches, nectarines, apricots, papaya, mangoes, pears, and passion fruit are some of their favorites. When adding some baby food to their habitat, allow it to remain in their for 12 hours. After 12 hours, be sure to clean up any residue, as it can either grow mold, or attract unwanted insects.
Great Products for Your Beloved Pet
Our pets are our family members. And whether they're scaly, or spotted, or gifted with lumpy tails, we love them til the end and back. So it's nice to express that love through some excellent products. Because our beloved pets need more than tasty crickets. They also need enclosures that resemble their natural settings. So here are some excellent products and accessories to consider when building the habitat for your beloved family member.
- Reptile Tanks - So, you're beloved pet might not be a reptile. It could be an amphibian, or even an arachnid, or some other type of cricket eating critter. Regardless of what it technically is, you'll want a large tank or terrarium for them to live in. So here's a list of the top 5 reptile tanks to help your pet live their lives to their fullest potential.
- Reptile Foggers - Same as above. You might not own a reptile. You very well could own some African poison dart frogs. And if that's the case, you'll still be looking for a reptile fogger. So whether you're in need for a reptile fogger or an amphibian fogger, these are 5 excellent foggers that will help your pet feel comfortable in their environment.
- Reptile Heating Pad - One thing is for sure: amphibians and reptiles are not mammals. Which means they cannot regulate their own body temperature. Which means they require some type of heating source within their habitat. So browse through some of these heating pads, or heating bulbs, or ceramic bulbs to decide which heat source will fit your needs.
Winter Shipping Policy
- We will not ship when Destination Temps are below 25 Degrees F
- Live Delivery is Not Guaranteed when Destination Temps are below 45 Degrees F
If you are ordering crickets, superworms, or any other live product during the winter, you need to be realistic: we’re trying to ship a live product through sub 30 degree temperatures affordably.
We take extra measures during the winter to try and increase their chances of survival. However, history has proven that customers are 4x more likely to receive perished crickets when shipped in the winter. This is fact.
Shipping in the winter has always been our biggest challenge. And every other crickets vendor has the same problem. No one wants to send you dead crickets. We want to provide you with excellent service, because we know you care about your pet. But the reality is we can’t control the weather. And there’s only so much packaging we can do before we have to increase our costs.
We still have success shipping in the winter.
If you decide to order for a winter delivery, here's what you can do on your end to ensure you receive happy, healthy live products:
- You MUST be home to accept the delivery. The live product cannot be left outside in the freezing temperatures, or it's certain they won't survive.
- If we ship with the Post Office, we highly highly highly recommend that you communicate with your post office. And that you ask them to hold the package for pick up.
- If there is a problem, we must be notified within 24 hours of receiving the live product.
Dead crickets or superworms don't do you (the customer), or us (the cricket grower) any good. So let's work together to ensure your live product survives the transit.
We can only ship Live Products on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays
We want to get your products delivered quickly just as badly as you do. But the reality is that shipping live products isn't the easiest task. And that means we have to be disciplined and strategic when we ship. Otherwise, there's an increased probability that perished crickets will show up on your doorstep. And that doesn't do any good for the customer or shipper.
We Ship with The Post Office and with FedEx
We ship with the post office for a few reasons.
- They keep their packages inside their climate controlled buildings. This is a game changer. Instead of leaving the packages out on a dock, they are brought inside the building. Which can drastically increase the survival rate for the crickets and superworms.
- They Deliver on Saturdays. Since they deliver on Saturdays, we're able to ship on Wednesdays. Most packages are delivered within 2-3 business days. So if we ship on Wednesday, that 2-3 day window falls in the same week, which avoids any Sunday transit delays.
- Cost Effective. And one reason why we're able to keep our prices so low is because we use the post office. USPS Priority mail is a great, and reasonable priced service. And any savings we gain, we pass right back to the customer.
The post office is our preferred shipper. But depending on your proximity & time of year, we may upgrade your shipping service to FedEx for these reasons:
- The Post Office is unreliably slow during holidays. The drawback with the post office they don't guarantee delivery dates. They will advertise 2-3 days for their Priority Mail shipments. However, the don't guarantee you package will arrive in 2-3 days. And this becomes painfully obvious during the holidays, specifically between Black Friday and New Years. Which puts us in a tough spot because our preferred shipper with climate controlled facilities is no longer dependable. So we'll ship with FedEx for this reason.
- Faster Shipping/Shorter Transits. Faster shipping and shorter transits have obvious benefits. The live product will get delivered faster, and in a preferred habitat. And FedEx does guarantee their delivery dates, which is beneficial for the customer.
Temperatures are a big consideration when packaging and shipping live products. And at any time, we may decide to postpone deliveries if we feel the live product will not survive the transit. If that is the case, we will make our best effort to contact the customer so that can make other arrangements if desired.
But if the temperatures are too cold, we can package the crickets with heat packs. And if they are too hot, we can package them with cold gel packs.
But either way, we need to keep a close eye on the weather when we get into the extremes. So please keep that in mind when expecting deliveries.